March saw the end of applying the first layer of Mahogany veneer, as seen above, and the beginning of the second layer.
This second layer is applied at about a 90 degree angle to the first.
Of course, the scribing as described in the previous post continues. Note some of the fancy scribing up near the keel in the picture above.
The hull looks different, a little more streamline, with the strips running from the top of the bow and angled toward the lower stern. Both directions can be seen from the bow.
Here are some "action shots" of the second layer being applied...
The hull is wetted with the epoxy.
Note all those plastic staples holding the veneer on...
The underside of the next strip is wetted with epoxy, and Richard mixes more epoxy with wood flour to the consistency of frosting.
Note all those plastic staples holding the veneer on...
The underside of the next strip is wetted with epoxy, and Richard mixes more epoxy with wood flour to the consistency of frosting.
The thickened epoxy is applied over the previously wetted area to fill voids and give a base for the strip to smoosh into...
Absolutely no voids are wanted in the hull. Richard is basically creating plywood in the shape of a boat by gluing up these thin layers.
The pre-scribed strip with the wetted back is set into position as marked.
Once the marks line up, a couple of staples hold it in position so that it can be smoothed down evenly.
Of course, if only one or two staples hold the upper end down, then as you work to the lower end the upper end will pop up...
Working it back down, from one end to the other. It seems to have a mind of its own.
Applying lots and lots of nails seems the only way to tame it.
All the way around every curve.
Pow, pow, pow...
Richard is starting to get very tired of this phase. It will be about 200 hrs into this phase when both layers of veneering are complete on both sides of the hull. He is ready for something new.
During some down time while waiting for the last of the plastic nails and more epoxy to arrive, Richard started to lay-up the outer stem. He used the extra mahogany veneer.
The outer stem needs to be shaped exactly the same as the inner stem. The stem is the front edge of the boat, as seen above. A piece of the veneer was screwed directly to the existing inner stem, and left to hang over on the right and left, to create a jig for the gluing and clamping. A layer of tape was applied to the veneer jig to prevent any excess epoxy from sticking to the jig. This would allow the thick built-up outer stem to be removed and give access for the jig to be unscrewed from the inner stem when complete.
The outer stem needs to be shaped exactly the same as the inner stem. The stem is the front edge of the boat, as seen above. A piece of the veneer was screwed directly to the existing inner stem, and left to hang over on the right and left, to create a jig for the gluing and clamping. A layer of tape was applied to the veneer jig to prevent any excess epoxy from sticking to the jig. This would allow the thick built-up outer stem to be removed and give access for the jig to be unscrewed from the inner stem when complete.
Layer upon layer of veneer were epoxied together and clamped to the jig.
All the clamps that were needed to maintain the tight curve makes it look like a porcupine.
The outer stem is made long to run all the way up to accommodate the bow sprit (toward the floor at this point).
By the keel, it also runs long, and will be shaped into the deadwood.
The outer stem that has been being layed-up over days is then unclamped from its base form. The jig was then unscrewed from the inner stem.
The resulting thick stem is a perfect fit.
It will need to be shaped, tapered and cut to the correct width when it is ready to be permanently attached.
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